Neck Bows Obsession

My newest obsession has been making a scarf that is comfortable yet small enough to not get in the way when dealing with 2 small children. After lots and lots of practice, I came up with a few items.

I started with a pattern for a headband, but it was huge. I was disappointed. The idea was there but when I followed the pattern for a small child it was so wide on me it covered almost my entire head. I am baffled at how some patterns look so amazing in the photos, but I always have to rewrite them when I try them.

I haven't decided yet if I am going to sell these yet or not. I have been seeing a lot more knit and crochet booths lately. I frequent one of the few Farmer's Markets here in the area and this weekend I saw TWO new booths that both had knit and crochet items. I stopped at the first booth. Just by looking at the items she had on display I could tell she was skilled. I bought a pink ear warmer from her.

I didn't try it on, which I should've. It was tight so tight it will not belong to my five year old daughter. Beyond that I tried to pull it down for a neck warmer idea like the ones below, but the yarn was so itchy I couldn't have it touching my skin.

Talent is one thing but common sense is another. I know these people want to sell items, but honestly my biggest sales are because I have loyal customers that return. If I didn't have people returning to buy multiple items again and again I wouldn't have made nearly as many sales.

The mistake most knitters make is proportion. Setting the eyes at the exact spot, lining up a bow in  an awkward area could destroy even the most perfect hat. I've seen it a lot with the newest character hats especially the Hello Kitty hats, proportion is key. The eyes are too wide, too small, too close or everything is clumped together.

I think the biggest mistake people make is that they under charge for their work because they are so desperate to sell. This effects us all as knitters. Why is someone going to even look at my $25 hat even if it is better when someone has them posted for $10 on the next site. Someone once told me the piece you sell is a penny a stitch. For every stitch you do you charge a penny. That and consider the ramification of using cheap yarn. I now have a beautiful head band/scarf no one wants to wear because its like sandpaper against your neck.

Neck Bows that I am obsessed with...

Frozen Anna Hat

Frozen - Anna Princess Hat

Available on Etsy for the first time from Precious Yarn are two adorable Frozen inspired Princess Hats. A limited amount available before Christmas. There are two hats left. Sizes include small to medium for children ages 5-10 years or for head sizes ranging from 20"- 22".  The cost of the Anna hats includes FREE shipping for a limited time only.

Etsy Shop - Precious Yarn

 

Also available before Christmas is a knitted FROZEN inspired beanie. The hat available is the knitted beanie (right hat in photo below). Any requests or orders for the Anna braids hat will be made to order.

 

Two knitted beanies without hair are available before Christmas. Sizes include medium and large.

 

 

For more creations by Precious Yarn that are for sale visit www.facebook.com/preciousyarn

 

ELSA Hat

My next goal is to write down my Elsa Hat Pattern. I know this one is pretty popular. It is funny at the event the Anna hats were more popular than anything else, but I think it is because the Elsa hats look strange when they are lying flat. I decided to put them on a wig head and they look so much better.

My daughter wants to give everyone she sees a handmade hat. So we came up with an idea to give away a bunch of hats to people who may think the world of them. At or around Christmas (so I have time to make more) we plan to donate hats especially the ones with the long hair to the kids with cancer here in the area. 

I still have a lot of work to do in order to make this happen. First I need to figure out how many hats I will actually need. Also how many Elsa hats vs Super Hero hats. I thought too if I shared my pattern with others they might be inclined to donate their time and resources to make one hat for a small kid so we can donate as many as possible. This is still a work in progress, but ideally this is our goal this winter. I hope everyone enjoys this one. The pattern is still lodged in my brain so as soon as I am able to explain it I will be back to update this post with the pattern.

Free pattern to be posted soon

If you are in the Las Vegas area, we will have another booth in two weeks where I will be selling more hats like this one. Orders are starting to build. I wish I could do this full-time but I actually have a full-time job, besides that I am not crazy fast so it takes me a long time to sew each individual hair piece and I am sure I would develop some sort of crochet-hand-tunnel syndrome :) if I did this all day.

 

Visit more creations for sale visit me at www.facebook.com/preciousyarn

Panama Hat Pattern

FREE Panama Hat Pattern

Abbreviations used in pattern:
Ch – Chain

SC – Single Crochet

DC – Double Crochet

TR – Triple Crochet

Sl – Slip

St – Stitch

YO – Yarn Over

I have been obsessed with the Panama Hat Patterns I have seen posted all over Facebook and Pintrest. It is just too bad I don't speak Russian and Google while it might be great for many things does not translate crochet patterns into English very well at all. I was left with a big mess. Finally I am able to share one pattern that turned out for me. 

This one is more straight than the twisty curve because of the positioning of the flowers. I will make adjustments if anyone is interested in additional ones with the more twisted look. 

Size approx. 20”

Hook Size: C

To increase the size of the hat start with more DC in round 1 (12-15 will increase the size). Recommend starting with 10 if using standard weight yarn medium 4. If you choose to use the Patron thin delicate yarn it is really pretty, but it is smaller so I recommend starting with more DC in round 1.

Chain 8 to make a ring - OR - Ch 3 (magic ring)

Round 1: 10 DC in the 3^rd chain from hook to allow the ring to adjust to the size you need. Sl st into st DC of the round

Front Post Double Crochet (Fpdc) – makes a double crochet around the front of the post. Yarn over (YO) with front facing, insert your hook from the front to the back around the post of the dc on the previous row. (The hook should be positioned horizontally behind the double crochet that you’re working around)Complete the st as a regular DC. 

Round 2: Ch 4 Fpdc around first DC not the same DC as the connecting round, ch1, Fpdc, ch1* in each st around, sl st to top of first DC at the start of the round.

This looks like a pinwheel almost. You should have a Fpdc around each post from row 1 with a ch1 space separating each post.

Round 3: Ch 3, Fpdc around same connecting post from the previous row, ch1, DC in the top of the Fpdc from previous row, *Fpdc around DC in the previous row, ch1, 1 DC*, repeat * to * to the end of the round. Sl st in first DC.

Notes: row 3 - the DC is made in the same DC as the Fpdc. At the end of the round it will look almost like an X shape.

Round 4: Ch 4, Fpdc in 1^st post, ch1, 1 DC in next DC, ch1, Fpdc next post, ch1, 1DC in next DC, ch1*, repeat * to * to the end of the round. Sl st in first DC.

NOTE: the ch spaces act as an increase but maintain the lovely square pattern throughout the hat.

Round 5: Ch 3, 1 DC in same DC, ch1, Fpdc around next post, ch1, 2 DC in next DC, ch1, 1 Fpdc in next post, ch1* repeat * to * to the end of the round.

(Careful to remember that each Fpdc is separated by a ch1 space. This maintains the lovely square lace pattern down the side of the hat).

Sl st in first DC.

Round 6: Ch 3, 1 DC in same DC, 1 DC in next DC, ch1, Fpdc around next post, ch1, *2 DC in next DC, 1 DC in next DC, ch1, 1 Fpdc in next post, ch1* repeat * to * to the end of the round.

Pressed flat you should be able to see the pattern forming in groups between the ch1 spaces, each row the number of DC increases between these ch1 spaces to create the lovely pattern that makes this hat unique.

Round 7: Ch 3, 1 DC in same DC, 1 DC in next 2 DC, ch1, Fpdc around next post, ch1, *2 DC in next DC, 1 DC in next 2 DC, ch1, 1 Fpdc in next post, ch1* repeat * to * to the end of the round. Sl st in first DC to complete the round.

Round 8: Ch 3, 1 DC in next DC, 1 DC in next 2 DC, (ch 3 counts as a DC), ch1, Fpdc around next post, ch2, *1DC in next 4 DC, ch1, 1 Fpdc in next post, ch1* repeat * to * to the end of the round. Sl st in first DC to complete the round.

Repeat Round 8 until the hat measures 17cm from round 1 to the bottom remember to maintain the ch1 spaces between each 4 DC and Fpdc to bring the lovely box open through to the bottom of the hat.

Start of brim: Sl st color change (soft pink)

Round 1: Ch1 SC in each of next 4 DC across to ch1 space, 1 sc in ch1 space, 1 sc in Fdpc post, repeat * to * to end. Sl st.

Round 2: 1 SC in each sc around to end. Sl st.

Round 3: switch back to main color (brown) – ch 4, Fdpc next sc, DC in next sc, Fpdc in next sc, DC in next sc, continue to end of round.

Round 4: Ch 3, Fdpc next post, DC in the top of the next Fpdc, Fpdc in next post, 1 DC in next post,* repeate * to * to the end of the round. (the pattern should look like DC, Fpdc, DC, Fpdc. 

Round 5 – Round 8 repeat round 4 depending on desired length may add another round if choose.

Round 9: will be worked backwards around the hat still on the front side, with  main color ch1, sl into previous st (st to the right of the hook) pull up onto hook (2sts on hook) yo and pull through all st on hook (sc), 1sc in previous st, repeat around the hat (worked backwards without turning it over). The sc are worked from the last st to the first st. It will feel a little strange working backwards but you will get the hang of it.

Flowers (make 6)

Main color (brown)

Ch 7 connect to form a ring

5 sc in ring

switch color (pink)

ch4, 2 triple crochet in next st (yarn over twice instead of once like for DC to create a triple crochet – it gives the petal a little height), ch 3 sl st into same sc, *ch 4 2 triple crochet in next st, ch 3, sl st into same sc* (petal made), repeat * to * until 6 petals are made. Sl st to bind off remembering to leave a longer tail to sew flower to hat.

Sew flowers to the hat just above the brim on the fpdc. I skipped every other fpdc to balance them out evenly, but any flower and any place would look lovely.

Special Hat Event

A sneak peak as to what I will have for sale at our SHOPPING EVENT on Saturday, November 15, 2014. I will have two of each style or theme unless otherwise ordered prior to the event. The character hats go fast. If you are interested, please be on time. Starts 3pm goes till 7pm.

E-mail me at Preciousyarn(at)gmail.com for details about the event. There are approximately 100 hats for sale so more photos will follow.

Captain America Hats 

$25.00 each

Sizes 

Toddler - small child
Patterns soon to follow in additional posts

Ninja Turtles hats

$25.00 each

Free Ninja Turtle Pattern Available

FROZEN themed hats include:

Anna hat w/hair - $25.00

Anna hat snowflake - $20.00

Anna hat w/crown - $30.00

Additional FROZEN hats that will available will include:

Elsa and Olaf hat - photos to follow

Elsa hat w/crown- $30.00

Elsa hat snowflake - $25.00

Olaf hat - $25.00

Will be uploaded soon pending on availability

Knitted FLOWER Hats

Sizes - newborn to toddler 

$20.00 each

Ninja Turtle Hat Pattern

This was a custom order for a small boy who loves the Ninja Turtles. I recommend reading through the pattern first before attempting it. After the event these will be available on the easy site: Precious Yarn

NINJA TURTLE HAT
Size I Hook

The red mask is a little bigger than the blue mask because I did DC for all rows instead of the SC rows listed below. The pattern listed below will create the blue mask. The border of the SC around the mask makes it look more sleek.

Size G Hook

Materials:


Worsted weight yarn

Used: RED Heart super saver (found it to be the best for children hats. It holds up to their rough play and doesn't break down in the wash with fuzz or get limp and withered. I recommend using the same brand of yarn (whatever you choose) for all parts. When you change yarn the thickness can change and the size of the hat can also change.

Colors: Green, mask color choice, white and black

Hook: G - toddler size (18 inches)
 - skip row 5

Hook: H child size (20 1/2 inches)
 

*Hook: I special child size (this is for those children who have longer heads than the average. My five year old has a 20 1/2 inch head but it is shaped different than my 2 year old with the same 20 1/2 inch head so the hats don't always sit right)


If you crochet loose you may want to use one size smaller than listed above or if you use a stretchy yarn. I prefer the crochet hooks by Susan Bates but it is your own preference. I also prefer the smaller hooks because the yarn is closely pulled together without pulling your tension tight.

Yarn needle

Scissors

Abbreviations:

CH - Chain

SC - single crochet

DC - (Double Crochet)

HDC - (Half Double Crochet)

TR - Triple crochet

Sl - slip

St - stitch

Green Yarn:

Ch 3 begin row 1 in the first chain to create magic ring

Round 1: 12 DC in magic ring, slip st to top of first DC; the chain 3 do not count as a DC

Round 2: ch 2, 2 DC in same connecting st, continue with 2 DC in each st around, sl st to top first DC
there will be the ch 2 that pulls the stitches together. (12 groups of 2 DC or total 24 stitches)

Round 3: ch 2, *2 DC in next same connecting st, 1 DC in the next st*, repeat around from *. Sl st in first DC 


Round 4: ch 2, 2 HDC in next same connecting st, *2 HDC in next st, DC in next 2 sts*, repeat around from *. Sl st in first HDC - for toddler size skip row 5 move to row 6

Round 5: ch 2, 2 HDC in next same connecting st, *2 HDC in next st, DC in next 3 sts*, repeat around from *. Sl st in first HDC (60 std) 

Count all the stitches in the round. This is very important because the hat size will be determined at this point. Continue to count the stitches in each round completed if you are not experienced with crocheting in the round. It is very easy to add stitches and not realize it especially in the joining st. This is to make sure additional stitches are not added.

Round 6: ch 2, DC in each st around, do not sl st with green change to mask color and Sl st in first DC with mask color. (red)

Mask Color: (RED)

Rounds 7: ch 2 SC in each st around, sl st in first SC not the ch 2
Rounds 8 - 10: ch 2, DC in each st around, sl st in first DC

Round 11: ch 2, SC in each st around, sl st in first SC using the green

With Green:

Round 12-13: ch 2, DC in each st around, sl st in first DC

Round 14-15: ch 1, SC in each st around, sl st in first SC

Depending on the desired size the hat will measure approximately 6.5 inches if you need more length repeat round 14 and 15.

Tie off and weave in ends

Back ties: RED – read through the back tie directions to the bottom before you begin to have a clear understanding as the pattern for the large and the small are the same but minus 2 rows in the middle to shorten the length.

Slip stitch red onto the hat in the back at the top of round 11. To do this you will want to slip into the top of the double crochet so the tie lays on top of the back of the hat.

Row  1: Slip stitch ch 2 and SC  in next 7 DC. Start at the back seam and count over 7 stitches.

Row (2-6) 2-8: ch 2, 1 HDC to end of the row (7 HDC); repeat this row until row 8 or desired length. (For smaller tie: complete Row 2-6 and move to Row 9 of the larger tie).

Row (7) 9: ch 2 decrease 1 (yarn over slip stitch into first HDC do not finish the st but yarn over and slip stitch into next HDC and pull through all loops on hook creates 1 stitch in 2 spaces), 1 HDC in next 3 st, decrease 1, which will take you to the last stitch. (5 HDC)

Row (8) 10: ch 2 decrease 1, 1 HDC in next 1 st, decrease 1 which will take you to the last stitch. (3 HDC)

Row (9) 11: ch 2 decrease through all three stitches. (yarn over slip stitch into first HDC, do not finish the st, but yarn over and slip stitch into next HDC, again do not finish the st, yarn over and and pull through the last st, yarn over and pull through all loops on hook creates 1 stitch in 3 spaces to give the round bottom effect).

Row (1) for the smaller tie will be added at the top of row 10. I layered them so at the 3^rd stitch of the first flap start the second flap in row 10 so they lay nicely on top of each other.

[Row (Small Tie) Large Tie:] 

Eyes: WHITE make 2

Ch 3

Round 1: 12 DC in first ch from hook to create the round or inside magic circle, pull tight to form circle


Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next st, 2 HDC in next st, 1 HDC in next st, 2 DC in next st, 2 tr in each of the next 2 sts, 2 DC in next st, 1 HDC in next st, 2 HDC in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. Sl st in the top of the first sc.

I hate sewing so I recommend sewing the whites of the eyes to the hat and then adding the black pupils. I know most sites suggest sewing it a different way but I have found it makes it easier to position them so they don’t appear cross-eyed.

My mom thought the eyes should be more with the mask so if you are looking for this type of effect you can take (one size bigger than what you used) hook and slip stitch the mask color around the whites of the eyes. Remember to cut a tail long enough to sew to the mask. It does make the eyes appear rounder if you choose this option.

Pupil: BLACK make 2

Ch 3

Round 1: 8 HDC into magic circle, pull tight and sl st to the top of the first HDC. Tie off cut a long tail to sew.

Using yarn needle attach each black pupil to the white piece after the eye has been positioned on the hat. Be sure to make sure they are set at the low corner so they don’t appear creepy. Sew the pupils to the hat last.

Recycled Crayon Cozy Cup Holders Pattern

Description

Apparently my daughter is quite spoiled, considering we had enough crayons to fill each cozy with the appropriate color. The idea was to get these annoying crayons off the floor and out of random places where they did not belong. These crayon cup rainbow cozies turned out to be a great way to store all those lost crayons that are missing their home and keep ending up on the floor.

WARNING: These might bring life back to arts and crafts and create a desire for small children to want to color

Required Materials

1. 9 empty plastic water bottles (Use any brand. The ones that have the rings around them making it easier to size the cup holder). The plastic bottles from Whole Foods is what I used. Specifically the brand, Crystal Geyser 16.9 fl oz.
2. Heavy Duty scissors (used kitchen scissors)
3. Sharp small fine sewing scissors
4. 9 skeins of yarn:  Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Purple, Black, Brown, White (Brand: Red Heart Super Saver or 100% acrylic yarn)
5. Crochet Hook: Size H (smaller size if available for assistance in weaving in ends)
6. 7-8 boxes of crayons (During back-to-school season these can be a cheap as $1.00 per box. 

Clear Plastic Cup Holder 
(Make 9 Plastic Cup Holders)

This is a great way to recycle all those accumulating water bottles. The base of the crayon holder is the bottom of a plastic water bottle. 

Start with the 9 empty plastic water bottles. 

Start cutting the tops off each one using the heavy duty scissors careful not to smash them. 

Once the tops are removed it is easier to shape the bottles to the size you prefer. I used 7 rings from the bottom approximately 5.5 inches. 

Cut along the inside of the 7th ridge from the bottom of the plastic water bottle to create the plastic cup for the crayons. This is the cup that actually holds the crayons. The crochet portion will wrap around the plastic cup holder. This should hold about one small box of crayons.

Repeat these directions for all 9 plastic water bottles. The results 9 plastic cup holders for your crayons.

If you do not want these crayon cozies to disappear into bedrooms and small cubbies, you may want to make them stationary. 

My daughter loves these so much she seems to want to carry them everywhere she goes. It has actually helped clean up time. She is actually excited to clean up her crayons, but more importantly she is learning how to keep them organized while using them rather than dumping the entire box or container on the floor.

I advise that you attach small pieces of velcro tape at the bottom of each plastic cup and the top of something sturdy enough to hold them stationary so they do not tip over while being used. 

They can be attached to the top of a kids table, plexiglass, or large plastic lid. 

Crochet Pattern for the Crayon Cozies

Ch 25 (MC)

Row 1: (MC) sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in the next 23 ch. (24 sc). Sl st into the 1st sc creating a ring. Be careful not to twist the the rnd. 

Rnd 2: (MC) ch 2 - (ch 2 does not count as a hdc - see NOTE for clarification), hdc in same st as the ch 2, continue to hdc in every st around to the 1st hdc , sl st in the top of the 1st hdc, not the ch 2 (24 hdc), fasten off.

Important Author’s Note:

Be careful not to add any additional stitches while making the rounds. The ch 2 does not count as a hdc so you want to be careful not to use the starting st twice. The 1st hdc is made in the same st as the ch 2, therefore the stitch should not be used again at the end. It might look like you are skipping the last hdc in the rnd, but if you count the stitches in that round you should have 24 hdc.                                                                               

Rnd 3: (CC) switch yarn to CC, sl st into starting st, (ch 2 does not count as a hdc - see NOTE for clarification), hdc in same st as the ch 2, continue to hdc in every st around to the 1st hdc , sl st in the top of the 1st hdc, not the ch 2 (24 hdc), fasten off. 

Rnd 4: (MC) sl st using MC into starting st, (ch 2 does not count as a hdc - see NOTE for clarification), hdc in same st as the ch 2, continue to hdc in every st around to the 1st hdc , sl st in the top of the 1st hdc, not the ch 2 (24 hdc). Do not fasten off.

Rnd 5: (MC) Repeat rnd 4, (Do not fasten off).

Rnd 6: (MC) Repeat rnd 2, (fasten off).

Rnd 7:  (CC) Repeat rnd 3, (fasten off).

Rnd 8: (MC) Repeat rnd 4, (Do not fasten off).

Rnd 9: (MC) ch 1, sc in same st as the ch 1, continue to sc in every st around to the 1st sc, sl st in 1st sc. Do not fasten off.

Rnd 10: (MC) Do not ch, sl st in every sc around to 1st sl st. cut yarn and fasten off and weave in ends.

Make 9 cozies: Brown, Purple, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Grey, and White 

I think fastening off between colors looks better than connecting colors in the rnd. If you prefer to continue without fastening off between colors, you will want to connect the alternating color at the start of each rnd when you sl st completing the rnd.

I have debated on whether I should post my patterns for free or not for quite awhile. Please do not discourage the creative community by stealing others work. 

Do not steal this pattern as your own it is plagiarism and violates copyright laws. Do not steal this pattern and sell it claiming it as your own it is dishonest, harmful, and just wrong. 

However if you choose to sell your completed projects, please reference my blog. Thank you! Please enjoy!